Taming Feral Cats: YOU are the Special Guest!

hello,i think that the only way to calm their fear is to let them get used to seeing you do things,like feeding them.If they see you doing this everyday,they will get used to your scent and will then wait for you to come and feed them.Just make sure that you talk softly to them.Wait for THEM to approach YOU,no matter how cute they are,they are wild,and IF they wiew you as a threat,they could hurt you.I also think that TIME is a great teacher mytwocats

I have a feral cat I found her about a1yrs a go had her neutered she won't let me get close to her whatcan Ido to get her to trust me Ihad her all this timeand Icant pet her I have another cat I found in the same place 4yrs a go and he is fine Iplay with him and Ipet him plese help F Frisina

I have just had my first feral cat trap, neuter, and release experience, and it was pretty traumatic - for me and the cats. I have been feeding two feral cats since September, and I made them a cat house out of a wood packing crate that I insulated. I am hoping that will keep them warm for the winter. They still needed to be neutered, however, so I rented a trap, and I managed to trap first one of the "twins" as I call my feral cats, and then a racoon, and then a tiny kitten, and finally, the other twin. Trying to get the very mad racoon out was a challenge, and then the next morning, when I needed to catch the cats, again (I put them in a spare bedroom), it was chaos. The cats were so distraught, they were flinging themselves against the walls, and I got bit - through a jean coat, sweatshirt, and glove. So, I was crying because I was so upset that I was making the cats so upset, and I was really afraid the little one would get hurt. I had to call my brother to come help me, and we finally got them all in cages and took them to the vet. I picked them up just a few hours ago, and one of the twins accidently escaped the cage when we got to my house, so I let the other twin go, as well, so they could cuddle up together tonight. I have the kitten in my extra bedroom for the night (still in his cage - I learned a lesson there), and I will keep him inside for the night. I am so afraid for him because he is so small. I am terribly worried about the twins, as well. It is cold outside. I would adopt them all, but I live in an apartment with two cats already. I hope I did the right thing. I just feel so bad that I traumatized them so badly. My advice would be to have someone help you who has done this before, because it isn't easy. But it is much better than those three boy kitties making other feral cats have babies, because I am sure they would show up on my doorstep, and I would have to take care of them. I hope my twins are okay, and that I get to see their darling faces in the morning when I go to give them breakfast - I just worry about the cold and their stitches. Thanks for letting me tell my story. Feral Kitty Mom in Boise.

Hi,

Here are some tips that might be helpful, maybe new to some of you, in no
particular order:

1. I use what I call the "ET method" when taming a cat, whether caged or
free. Of course, cages works best. Instead of approaching the cat with the
entire hand, try one pointed finger. As, it is smaller, it is seen as less
invasive/threatening to the cat. I wiggle and move just a bit closer than
the cat's comfort level for each session, carefully watching the cat's eyes
to see how stressed (and likely to swat/bite!) the individual cat is. I
play bouts of "soccer" with a cat toy towards the front of the cage and away
from the cat with my finger, which seems to show the cat that the finger is
"safe." This works especially well with kittens of any age. My personal
cats join in, happily in this taming technique, btw! And, that seems to
help in teaching the new kitty that I am not so bad, if these other cats
will voluntarily come near me and interact with/try to interfere! with the
toy. Lots of purring by my kitties helps sooth as well! I also handle
kernels of kibble with 2 fingers, close together. And, offer "bribes" of
luncheon meat in small portions, letting the cat smell my finger, afterward,
when the cat is ready for that step. I've used cat nip as well as the scent
on my "peace offering finger." (Needless to say, my own cats are quite
fascinated and enthusiastic about "helping" whenever possible re the
"smorgasbord" of techniques listed in this taming stage!)

2. I have a technique when humane trapping, in which I transfer the cat
from trap to a small cage (Haven't measured but about 14 x 24 x 12?,
collapses into a "briefcase" size with a handle on top), covered with a
towel, for the cat's sense of security/privacy. It is set up prior to the
transfer with layers of newspaper, water and food bowls hinged over the side
of a cage bar towards the very front of the cage "mouth" at the side where
the door opens. For the first day or so, they are isolated in the one cage.
Typically, overnight they will have scratched the paper to shreds. I then
put another same size cage, "mouth to mouth," carefully, changing the towel
to over the clean/fresh side and gently "herd" kitty to the other refreshed
side. I keep reversing this with the 2 cages. Once, the cat has stopped
the struggle to get out, I then create a "run" by tying the 2 cages mouth to
mouth. This allows the one covered side for the bed, food and water side,
and the other for use as the litter pan. If the cat is to be kept for
taming, turns out to be tame, I put a small, individual size litter pan in
that side to start that training. This holding period allows me to
accurately assess the cat for socialization potential, assessment whether is
a formerly owned pet, for health issues (check food and water intake, stool
and urine output/condition, etc.), and stabilizes the cat prior to the trip
to the vet for medical "the works." The small size of the cage also allows
me to bring the cat to the vet in this "cage carrier" and they can "stick"
the cat with a tranq. prior to handling for the medical. (You'll have to
check with your vet and your "feral cat clinic" people, to make sure they
will allow this, rather than require the cats be in the humane trap.) The
cat goes back in this cage after the vet work, transported home for recovery
and taming or transport to release. Again, lots of layers of newspapers,
and towels to completely cover the cage during transport, and a twist tie,
just for "insurance" on the door. If you are going to TNR them, keep the
human interaction of any type (sight/sound/smell/touch) to max minimum
possible. I find that my ability to store ferals for R & R, ample and
consistent food, observed for returned appetite/recovery after surgery with
little stress to them, actually has them in better shape for the return part
of TNR!

This cage has allowed more "interactive" procedures with the feral cat who
isn't unconscious!, that needs a repeat medical treatment or return to
vet--like vaccines given (subQ and intramuscular) or topical flea
treatment/medicine/antibiotic dosing--by using a large pillow, like a bed
pillow. You use the pillow to prevent the cat's escape from the cage and
"squish" him/her back against the far end of the cage, which allows the vet
or other "partner" to get a nice shot/dose of whatever is necessary into
them from the other side. If taming the cat, I gradually increase the size
of this cage set up over time, as I can handle/interact with them better.
So, I might go from this small "run" situation to one large cage, to adding
the "run" of another large cage, to having one large horizontal with a
vertical one, "attached." This way the cat can have some jump room and
shelves or small cat tree, so those muscles can be in use during the
confinement. After this stage, the cat is usu. ready for a windowed (closed
with no screen exposed!) bathroom size space. And, so on...

3. When assessing kittens/cats for taming, remove the most agressively
fearful/resistant one from the rest. I tend to try to "partner" kittens,
when possible, as it is best for their social development and the right
"buddy" can help with the taming of the two of them. But, if you have the
really "bad seed" kitten, you have to cull that one away from the others.
Sometimes, you have to do the "tough love" technique of isolating that one,
so they have to bond with you, instead of using the other kittens/cats as a
buffer between you and them, while "teaching" their fellow cats to not trust
you, either. I create a "papoose" out of an old torn/cut up sheet to carry
the "bad one" around with me while doing other things around the house. I
find that if the cat can't see you, has the head covered in this
"contraption" he/she will stop trying to get away from you. Your body heat
and heart beat relaxes them and they tend to forget where they are. Once
they have acclimated to this step, when you are quiet and sitting quietly,
talking on the phone/watching TV, you can go to moving more, walking around
the house to get things done while taming "Monster Kitty!" While watching
TV/videos, I keep a cat carrier filled with the latest batch of kittens
needing to be tamed and continually "snatch" one out and "woman handle" them
in various ways will watching whatever, ongoing rotation among the kittens.

Hope some of this helps someone,

MK

This will be our 1st winter off the street, mine and the remaining members of a colony that I have been feeding and fusing over for the last 12-13 years. I met my colony of cats in a lot around the corner from my home. I had been feeding stragglers for several years prior, but never noticed the colony until I got a parking space in the lot.
Being consistent with a feeding schedule was crucial to keeping track of everyone's whereabouts. If they know when to expect you, they will wait (in this case under my car) until I showed each eve with dinner. I provided breakfast for a time, but this was problematic for me and the cats so I was forced to stop. I never used traps to "capture" them, but only used regular cat carriers; you have to be very quiet and very fast to close the door to the carrier quickly. I would put a plate of food inside with some added meat toppings (I am a vegetarian so when I planned to take one to the Vet, I had to be sure that I had some special food available).
If you use traps, they should NEVER be left unattended, because of the dangers that a trapped animal is exposed to -- they are unable to flee a "predator".
I also hung around after putting out the food to check them out; to them, I may have appeared to be a look out for them while they ate. I also spoke quietly to them, so that they'd get use to the sound of my voice. I did not attempt to pet or otherwise handle any of the cats, unless I was prepared to rescue one from outdoors. I never wanted any of them to lose their "edge", adults and kittens alike. I believe that it is important that they remain wary of strangers for their own safety. If one was especially friendly, I made sure that they were rescued, for adoption, or to stay with me forever, as quickly as possible. If you are tending a colony of cats, you will soon find that if there is sufficient food, other cats will be permitted by the core colony to join the group. If I knew then, what I know now, I would have taken EVERYONE in at the same time. Only once did I return a female cat to the colony after having her spayed, she was and still is unwilling to be handled (but she is comfy now indoors as well). Mutual respect is important. None of my cats who do not want to be handled are aggressive, I believe it is because they do not feel threatened. If you are caring for a group of feral cats, I think it is important to become acquainted with their behaviors, there is probably at least one "mommy" cat and one male preferred by all the females. It is important that you take into consideration the bonds that exist between the members/family, interbreeding of related cats happens in a colony if the females are not spayed. And if only the females are spayed, but the males left intact, then the males will wander, sometimes returning with other non-spayed females. It can get complicated, so you need to be prepared for the stress that caregivers typically experience. You will worry about them, like you'd worry about any other companion animal.

I too moved into a neighborhood with a colony and soon I was the one feeding and careing for the on and off 10 members. I slowly got everyone spayed and neutered and took in all kittens as they were born (slowly ment some moms and kittens over the years) all of the kittens were taken in and bottle fed and all found good homes ( some with me and my daughter). The last female to join and have kittens this spring was spayed after 4 weeks with her kittens and 10 days of drying up. I have generations of once ferals in my house and the neighborhood that just took some love and patience to have come around. Lacy is one feral that I took in as a member to join my colony but I soon learned that she was not an outside cat she came in made friends with a male in my house and has after 2 years become petable and sleeps on the bed at night, all cats come around if you are patient and slow, and show only kindness (I think they know that the Spay/neuter is a good thing) I saw the look on several moms face after that looked as if to say Thank God no more kittens they are so hard on my body).

I have been caring for a feral group in my neighborhood for about three years now and have successfully spayed and neutered all 12 members! It took me a long time to win their trust but i have and its hard to keep them from coming inside the house,thats how nice some of them have become. The one thing that i did was when i'd go to feed them, i'd stay outside and talk to them(i know its sounds crazy but it works). Eventually i'd reach out my hand to pet them until one day they finally let me. That is the best way to connect with them.It will be hard at first and you might feel like giving up, but i guarantee this works.

I moved into a neighborhood 5 years ago that had a feral group in residence.Since then I have managed to tame and adopt out 20 cats/kittens. I have six of them myself.The colony is down to ten from the original 30. The ones left are the most timid and scared of the group. I am going to begin trapping them next week, and neuter and return them to where they have been living.I would just like everyone to know that alot of feral cats can be tamed eventually to become pets. My one cat was a feral for over five years before he learned to trust me , he is now a house cat and is as friendly as can be. Not all cats will trust enough to be housecats, but given enough time so many that are destroyed or given up on can be loveable companion.Those of you who are feral cat caretakers---keep up the greart job.